You turn on the laptop but there is no video on the screen. Instead, it starts making repetitive beeping sound. In some cases you can fix the problem temporarily if you press on the keyboard keys.Most likely you have stuck keys. In this case you will have to replace the keyboard

        Most motherboards have the network port permanently attached. If the network port fails (I am talking about hardware, not software failure), the whole motherboard has to be replaced.Instead of replacing the motherboard, you can use a PCMCIA network card. You plug this card into the available PC slot in your laptop and you are back in business.If you computer does not have a PC slot, you can use a USB Ethernet adapter instead.

        When you move the cursor arrow over the battery icon while the laptop is connected to AC adapter, it show the remaining charge and says charging.The battery not seated correctly. Try reconnecting it.The battery contacts got dirty or oxidized and it is not making good connection with the motherboard. Apply some electronic contact cleaner on the contacts. If reconnecting the battery does not help, most likely it is bad and has to be replaced.If you replaced the battery but the problem still exists, this is motherboard related failure. Apparently the charging circuit on the motherboard failed. In this case the whole motherboard has to be replaced (or repaired on the component level).

        Whenever RAM fault occurs your monitor shows a blue screen with a memory reference like x000xxxx as a boot interruption. RAM faults cannot be prevented but you can fix them. There may be frequent PC restarts. This is due to faulty RAM chips. These Faulty RAM chips are unable to store the boot loader or NT loader file therefore the OS cannot find it and hence it shuts down all the processes, due to non-availability of the boot loader file in the RAM as a result the PC restarts again and again.This problem can be fixed by replacing the old RAM with a new one. You must know the model compatibility of you motherboard before buying a new RAM. It may be DDR, DDR2 or DDR3. Just do it!

        Just roll electrical or duct tape over the damage and hope for the best. A better way is to make a more permanent repair with silicone sealant, available at any hardware store and many supermarkets, which will insulate and protect it. It is best to use black to match the cords color, but clear sealant works just as well.To protect the surface you are working on, lay down a wide strip of painters tape, sticky side down, and place the frayed area of the cord on top of it. The sealant wont stick to the back of the painters tape the way it might to other barriers made out of paper or plastic, and the painters tape should peel right off the table when you are done. (Note, however, that you should not be doing any kind of computer repairs on your good furniture.)Next, squeeze out a gob of sealant onto the area that needs fixing. Work the gooey sealant into place, covering the damage with a liberal coating. If you have sensitive skin, it is a good idea to wear thin protective gloves for this part.Applying silicone sealant to the frayed cord.Let the sealant cure for an hour or two until it is firm. Gently remove the cord from the tape (and the tape from the table), and you have the equivalent of a new power cord that's flexible and ready for years of road work.

        The secret is to use epoxy putty to fill in the broken part of the case. Epoxy putty is available online or at any hardware store for around $4 to $6 a tube, so you can even do this repair on the road. The brand of putty you choose does not matter, but avoid the quick-setting variety because it might harden before you are done.First, make sure the damaged area is clean and free of dirt and loose pieces.Then it is time to prepare the putty. It comes as a cylinder with two components wrapped around each other. Just cut a section off and twist the parts together.Mix the two putty components completely.The key to a smooth case repair is to thoroughly mix the two components together in your hands. Because the putty hardens as the result of a chemical reaction between the two parts, it is important that they are completely blended together. You might want to use gloves for this part because some people are sensitive to the chemicals in the putty.Try rolling the putty into a long cylinder and then folding it over itself several times. After a few minutes, the putty becomes a uniform white or gray and you're ready.You will feel like a kid working with Play-Doh, and in fact, the putty should be the consistency of Play-Doh, which is perfect for working it into the damaged area. Press it firmly into the hole in the case and use your finger or a razor blade to shape it to follow the contour of the case. When it covers the area, take the flat side of a razor blade or back of a ruler and compress the outer surface to flatten it. Any excess putty can be wiped off the case with paper towel before it dries.When you like the way it looks, go do something else for an hour or two until the epoxy is cured. When it has hardened, the epoxy patch is just as strong as the plastic case.Press the putty into the damaged area and flatten the outer surface.Many DIYers stop here, and use the obvious repair as a road warriors badge of honor or conversation starter on road trips. I prefer a little more finishing, so I smooth the epoxy with 150- and then 220-grit sandpaper. Then I give it a final sanding with 2,000-grit paper that is slightly wet to remove any surface scratches.Naturally, the color does not match. If it is a small repair, try using a Sharpie marker to cover it up. For this repair, I used model airplane enamel paint, which costs about $5 for a small bottle; a full set of colors with brushes is $10. When it's dry, the repair is done and can only be seen if you look closely.The final (optional) steps are sanding the dried patch with increasingly finer sandpaper and painting it to match the case.

        More often than not, the fans get clogged with dust, debris and dirt, which can make them noisy and lower their efficiency. If your system is making a whirring or grinding noise or is overheating, this repair is for you.Blow compressed air into the slotted grilles.Before you do anything else, find the place(s) where fresh air comes in and hot air escapes -- usually one or more slotted grilles on the side or bottom of the system. There could be two or three vents, so do not give up easily. Insert the plastic straw from a can of compressed air into each vent and blow out all the dust that you can; you might want to put on a dust mask or have a vacuum cleaner running because there can be a disgusting amount of dust.If this does not fix things, it is time to dig in and open the case. There are generally about a dozen screws on the bottom of the case that you will need to remove to open the case, but it varies widely depending on the notebook -- for instance, some models require you to remove the keyboard to get inside. If it is not immediately obvious, check your manual or do some online research to find out how your case opens.After carefully opening the case, find the fan and blow away any additional dust or detritus.Open the case and remove any dust or detritus that impedes the fan.While you're there, take a good look for anything stuck in the fans blades that might be impeding it. Twirl the blade with your finger, and if it makes noise or does not spin freely-it needs to be replaced.Before going further, write down the model number of the fan and go online to find a replacement fan. Use your favorite search engine and type in the model number and cooling fan. Chances are that even for a five- or six-year-old computer, there will be fans available from several spare parts stores. The replacement should cost anywhere from $5 to $20.Carefully remove the old fan.Once you have the new fan in hand and are sure it's the right one, you can take out the old fan. First, unplug the fans power connector. Each system is different, but you will probably need to unscrew a frame that holds the fan in place, and then undo some screws holding the fan to the frame.Now you can gently remove the fan. It might take a little finesse to work the fan loose because it is generally a tight fit in there. Many notebook fans are connected to the heat pipe, a thin silver- or copper-colored tube that draws heat off of the processor or graphics chip. The heat pipe usually snaps or screws into the fan assembly. Try not to bend the heat pipe when you are removing the fan because that will reduce its efficiency at cooling the processor.With the new fan ready to go, slip it in and carefully screw everything back in place. Before you screw the bottom of the case back on, plug in the power connector and fire the machine up. Dont worry if it doesn't start right away because the fan may turn on only after the system heats up. Once you have verified that it is working, close the machine up and get to work.

        One of the most common and frustrating ways good notebooks go bad is with a stuck or broken key.In some cases (most notably MacBooks) you can get individual replacement keys, but they are quite expensive -- often $8 or $9 per key. In most cases, a full keyboard costs only a little more and is a better deal in the long run.Start by locating a replacement keyboard for your system. All you need to do is fire up your favorite Web search engine and type in the notebook model and the word keyboard. There is a good chance that you will find several online stores that sell the right keyboard for between $5 and $20 for a refurbished or used one and between $15 and $100 for a new one.Some laptops have a locking bar above or below the keyboard that holds it in place. Others make you remove screws from the bottom of the case before the keyboard can be removed, and still others require you to open the whole case to get at the keyboard. (If that describes your system, this is a good project to do while you are replacing the fan.) Your best bet is to nose around and look for a way in or leaf through the systems manual to find the answer.After prying up the locking bar at the top of the keyboard, pull it off. Unscrew the keyboard.Remove the locking bar and unscrew the screws that hold the keyboard in.Lift the keyboard slightly, but before you remove it completely, make sure you unplug the ribbon cable that connects it to the motherboard so you do not damage either piece. With the keyboard safely unplugged, lift it out.Unplug the ribbon cable and lift out the keyboard.It is now time to install the new keyboard. After plugging the new keyboard in, slip it into place and screw the keyboard in. Finally, snap the lock bar back in.That is it, but I suggest trying all the keys out before celebrating a job well done. Even refurbished and new keyboards are known to have bad keys, so you might have traded one problem for another. Most come with at least a 30-day warranty -- you might need it.